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Chat Transcript - 01/16/07 Small Lettering
| Jeri Lee | Greetings |
| Craig_Stephens | Hello everyone, this is my first time.... |
| Jeri Lee | Hello Craig! |
| Jeri Lee | Welcome! |
| Joanne | Hi Craig! It's great! Have fun |
| JohnL | Me too. |
| Jeri Lee | Another five minutes and we will start. Want to give all attendees time to get in the room here. |
| Jeri Lee | Okay. For those of you who have not attended our chats before, |
| Jeri Lee | these are interacting chats. |
| Jeri Lee | You can participate as you like, watch and listen, interject at will. |
| Jeri Lee | We answer questions as we go along, and in order pretty much |
| Jeri Lee | No question is unimportant or too 'new' to ask |
| Jeri Lee | If you have things to say, say them. If you have a technique that works for you, please feel free to share it. |
| Jeri Lee | Okay, let's get started |
| JohnL | What is the smallest lettering we can work? |
| Jeri Lee | 2 mm |
| Jeri Lee | And let me explain that |
| Jeri Lee | You can do 2 mm high lettering in a run stitch. Not in a satin, or a Pulse keyboard font |
| ladyle | how tall in inches |
| Jeri Lee | 2 mm is.... |
| Jeri Lee | let's see.... |
| Jeri Lee | about 1/12 an inch |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | What is that in mm? |
| Cheryl | when you say run stitch ..you mean hand digitize it? |
| Jeri Lee | yes, you read that right, 1/12 |
| Jeri Lee | Cheryl, that is correct |
| ladyle | okay. I'm old and can only deal in inches |
| Jeri Lee | 1/12 an inch is 2 mm |
| tortelvis | .078 inches = 2mm |
| Jeri Lee | Let me explain a bit on millimeters and inches. |
| Jeri Lee | In inches, you cannot do very precise measurements in the software. |
| Jeri Lee | 1 inch equals 25.4 mm, but I round down to 25. |
| Jeri Lee | When you do pull comp in inches (absolute), your smallest setting is .01 inches |
| Jeri Lee | in mm, you can go as small as you want just about. |
| Jeri Lee | in inches, your next measurement choice upward is .02 inches. |
| Jeri Lee | see the wide gap there? |
| Jeri Lee | That does not sound like much but it is actually a large jump |
| JohnL | What about density? |
| Cheryl | hard to visualize |
| Jeri Lee | okay, hang on John, we will do density in a sec. |
| Jeri Lee | To help you understand what a mm is, |
| Jeri Lee | think of one piece of 40 weight thread. |
| Jeri Lee | Coincidentally, that is .40 mm wide, or round up to half a millimeter |
| Jeri Lee | 1 mm is 2 pieces of 40 weight thread. |
| Jeri Lee | very skinny. |
| Cheryl | hmm |
| Jeri Lee | Do not be confused by this though, it does not hold true for thread weights generally. |
| Jeri Lee | It is only coincidental that 40 weight equals .40 mm wide |
| Jeri Lee | 60 weight is much thinner than 40 weight and is not .60 mm wide! |
| Jeri Lee | Okay, let's touch on that density. |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | Just a bit dof input when someone bring you line art it can go down to 1/1000th of a mm so al lot of art cnnot be converted to lettering |
| Jeri Lee | John, when you asked about the density, are you measuring in millimeters, inches or spi? |
| Jeri Lee | Saundra is right, and we will address that further, she brings up a very good point. |
| JohnL | spi |
| ladyle | pts |
| Jeri Lee | 4 points equals 63.5 spi, which equals 4 points. :-) |
| Jeri Lee | On density, when you use spi, you simply add a positive number to your density and it ADDS density |
| Shelly | i'm finally not the only one who uses pts! |
| Jeri Lee | On points, when you add a positive number it ADDS space or DECREASES density. |
| Jeri Lee | 3.3 points equals 77 spi I believe it is |
| Jeri Lee | 3 points is around 84.7 spi. |
| Jeri Lee | See how that works? |
| Shelly | how do you figure that? |
| ladyle | just us old folks use in & pts |
| Shelly | hey now! |
| nettie | why are there so many different ways to do the same thing? |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | The same is true with mm adding to it decreases density. |
| eleganttreasures@fuse.net | remember guys, age is relative! |
| Jeri Lee | Now, in small lettering, we do not want a lot of density in the letters. |
| Jeri Lee | Can anyone tell me why? |
| Cheryl | good cause this is going to take some 'digesting' later |
| ladyle | trd breaks |
| Jeri Lee | Yes, thread breaks |
| Shelly | bunches up and closes up |
| Jeri Lee | why |
| Jeri Lee | yes |
| Linda Perry | They would be too thick and close up |
| Shelly | too much thread |
| Jeri Lee | Yes, too thick |
| Jeri Lee | exactly |
| Shelly | in little area |
| Jeri Lee | good |
| Jeri Lee | Let's start at the beginning here |
| ladyle | i use 60 wt on very sm lettering |
| Jeri Lee | In all lettering (and this is going back to what Saundra said) you must have 1 mm width on all columns |
| Ray | and a 60 or 65 needle |
| Ricki | Should you use more underlay? |
| Jeri Lee | Yes, 60 weight and a 65/9 needle |
| Jeri Lee | In small lettering you decrease underlay. |
| Jeri Lee | See, there is only so much room in a small area., right? |
| ladyle | I use double run |
| Jeri Lee | If you have a 4 mm high letter |
| Cheryl | no matter what kind of fabric? |
| Jeri Lee | You only have so much room under your letter |
| Jeri Lee | small lettering is 4 mm or so |
| Jeri Lee | which is less than 1/4 inch |
| Jeri Lee | 5 mm is 1/5 and inch |
| Jeri Lee | very small |
| ladyle | .156 is 4 mm |
| Jeri Lee | You use perpendicular (or a double run) underlay on small lettering, if you have room |
| ladyle | Just over1/8 th |
| Jeri Lee | If you can only make one pass of underlay, then that is what you do. |
| Jeri Lee | You can set the software to do one pass of perpendicular. |
| Jeri Lee | Your satin columns must be 1 mm (or 2 thread widths) wide |
| Jeri Lee | You can get by with .80 mm, but you can only use one pass of perpendicular under there |
| Jeri Lee | Why? |
| Jeri Lee | Because the thread is .40 mm wide |
| ladyle | needle is .65 |
| Jeri Lee | You need to leave enough room on the letters to have the needle insert on either side. |
| Jeri Lee | Yes, 65/9 needle is recommended for small lettering, in conjunction with 60 weight thread |
| Shelly | the underlay will stick out on the sides |
| Jeri Lee | Oftentimes, you cannot find 60 weight thread in the color your customer needs. |
| Jeri Lee | So, you have to make do with 40 weight. |
| Jeri Lee | Optimum desires don't always mean reality in a shop. |
| Jeri Lee | So, we use 40 weight if necessary and decrease density. |
| mikeg | now i know what the 65 means but what is the nine in 65/9 |
| ladyle | 50 wt cotton comes in a lot of colors. Works in a pinch |
| Jeri Lee | One is a European number, one is an American number. |
| Cheryl | increase density in spi? |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | 9 is the size of the needle hole |
| Jeri Lee | On needles, the larger the number, the larger the shaft and the eye lf the needle |
| mikeg | tks |
| Craig_Stephens | What density do you use with 60wt? |
| Jeri Lee | Cheryl, what do you mean increase density? |
| Jeri Lee | On 60 weight, you can maintain regular density, because the thread is thinner. |
| Cheryl | you said increase density |
| Jeri Lee | I do not increase density on small letters, but most often decrease density. |
| Jeri Lee | Sorry, I must have mis-spoken, hope I did not confuse! |
| Jeri Lee | Small lettering is very often required by our customers. |
| Cheryl | I'm sorry yes, decrease..but in which format..spi or in |
| Jeri Lee | I personally use spi. |
| Jeri Lee | pts, spi, mm's, it's all the same, you get to the same point, just a different way. |
| ladyle | Customers want a lot. No idea if it can work |
| tortelvis | so if we punch at 74 spi drop letters to say 62 spi? |
| Jeri Lee | This is where we all get to become educators. |
| Cheryl | but you need to know which you are in to make the adjustment? |
| Jeri Lee | Yes, you need to know which you are in. |
| Jeri Lee | You can see that at the top of your screen, it will tell you what your master density is |
| Jeri Lee | If you are at 74 spi, then on small, you might drop 7 spi. |
| Jeri Lee | It also depends on the fabric you are using. |
| Ricki | I thought it defaulted to 59.5 |
| Jeri Lee | Pique likes more density. |
| Jeri Lee | Default is 63.5 |
| Jeri Lee | You can change that overall, for the entire system, or design by design. |
| Jeri Lee | On 4 mm lettering, the optimum would be a 65/9 needle and 60 weight thread. |
| Jeri Lee | Often in shops, there is one needle dedicated to that size needle and thread. |
| Jeri Lee | Many shops ignore the 60 weight thread, and make do with 40 weight all the way around. |
| Shelly | i don't have room to store 2 weights of thread in every color! |
| Jeri Lee | LOL, luckily for you 60 weight does not come in every color and the spools are tiny. |
| Shelly | oh, lol |
| Jeri Lee | As someone mentioned, you can use 50 weight also. |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | I just use 40 wt on all and change the density like Jeri Lee is pointing out. Works fine |
| Jeri Lee | DMC has a nice color selection, but I believe it is cotton. |
| Jeri Lee | Saundra, do you stick with a 75/11 needle? |
| ladyle | I try to stick to std colors. I charm my cust inti it |
| Jeri Lee | There you go! |
| Shelly | i never change from a 75/11 |
| Cheryl | does it hurt to leave the 65/9 needle in for general applications? |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | all of my needles are size 75/12 I believe |
| nettie | We are pretty much just talking about letters that you are punching yourself correct? |
| tortelvis | i have done both 40 wt and 60wt with a 65/9 and there is a bit of difference. 60wt is definately more legible. |
| eleganttreasures@fuse.net | I rarely change needles or threads as well, just density |
| Jeri Lee | No, you can use small keyboard lettering under what it is supposed to be stitched at with the smaller needle/thread/lower density |
| mikeg | makes sence |
| Jeri Lee | I punch all designs with small lettering allowing for the customer to use 40 weight thread and the 75/11 needle. |
| nettie | ok |
| Jeri Lee | Many shops won't change out. |
| Jeri Lee | Let's talk about another important component of the small letter. |
| Jeri Lee | That would be, |
| Jeri Lee | the openings. |
| Jeri Lee | Just as your columns need to be 1 mm wide to give you a nice satin (pull comped to 1.2 is choice), |
| Jeri Lee | your openings in your lower case e's, p, q, o, r, etc., need to be 1 mm. |
| Jeri Lee | If you do not have an opening on your screen, you will not have one on your garment. |
| Jeri Lee | So, when you are doing small lettering, you have to measure 2 things: |
| Jeri Lee | the column width, |
| Jeri Lee | and |
| Jeri Lee | the openings on the smallest areas of your letters. |
| Jeri Lee | Are there any questions on what we have covered so far? |
| Linda Perry | Jerilee: |
| Jeri Lee | Yes |
| Linda Perry | On pull comp--How do you measure if you use absolute? |
| Jeri Lee | I use .20 mm most generally but go down to .10 with caution |
| Jeri Lee | and then I measure. |
| Cheryl | and what does 'b |
| Jeri Lee | If it looks bad on the stitch out, if the satin turns into a run, I boot the pull comp back up. |
| Cheryl | absolute mean |
| Shelly | and that is 2.0 in absolute, right? |
| Jeri Lee | are you in mm? |
| Shelly | no |
| Jeri Lee | Absolute means? |
| Shelly | not sure what it is |
| Jeri Lee | Absolute means: |
| Shelly | i can't remember |
| ladyle | smae onall sides |
| Jeri Lee | You will get exactly and absolutely the same amount of pull comp on all areas of your letter, or your fill. |
| ladyle | can't type either |
| Cheryl | tx |
| Jeri Lee | If you use percentage: |
| Cheryl | thus...why we use it on sm letters |
| Jeri Lee | You get a percentage of the area. |
| Jeri Lee | ie" |
| Jeri Lee | say you have a column that is wide at the top and narrow at the bottom. |
| Jeri Lee | If you apply 115% pullcomp |
| Jeri Lee | the system will measure all the column and give you 15% pullcomp on all areas |
| Jeri Lee | the wider area will have more based on the fact that it is wider |
| Jeri Lee | the skinniest area will have 15% of its width, which is less, because mathematically, it is smaller already. |
| mikeg | is there a general guide on pull comp available? |
| lattemarie | Which one do you recommend and use, JeriLee? |
| Jeri Lee | In Maestro, you have inside and outside pull comp. |
| Jeri Lee | Well, Mike, |
| Jeri Lee | in a word, no. |
| Shelly | one question about that, i forgot to ask you on stock designs, they are usually percent, can I change that to abusolute? |
| Jeri Lee | If you are a puncher, you will have a measurement that you prefer. |
| Jeri Lee | I prefer .20 mm but will go down if necessary. |
| Jeri Lee | Ed prefers .13 as a default but adjusts up or down as necessary. |
| Jeri Lee | Saundra, can you answer that on Shelly's question? |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | Saundra prefers .30mm |
| Cheryl | are you talking about changing pull comp on 'designs? I thought we were talking about lettering |
| Shelly | i just jumped off for a sec, sorry |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | you can change anything on a stock desity including theover all pull comp |
| Jeri Lee | Well, sometimes we kind of offshoot... |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | just watch out it can take drastic effect on something punched in a different system |
| Shelly | thanks, saundra |
| Jeri Lee | Okay. |
| Jeri Lee | So this is what we have covered: |
| Jeri Lee | Small lettering includes 2 mm hand punched run stitch lettering. |
| Jeri Lee | On small lettering that is comprised of satins, we often decrease density to accomodate the small size of the lettering. |
| Jeri Lee | We can use stock lettering at a lesser height than recommended if we decrease density. |
| Jeri Lee | Often we use 65/9 needles with 50 or 60 weight thread to make the small letters more legible. |
| Jeri Lee | If you use 75/11 needles and 40 weight thread, |
| Jeri Lee | you can still accomplish a nice looking letter by decreasing th density. |
| Linda Perry | That is great to know. I always stayed away from less than what was recommended |
| Jeri Lee | The larger the needle number, the larger the eye/shaft which means, the larger the hole in the garment. |
| mikeg | explains why I was having some problems with muddy letters |
| Jeri Lee | To have a satin, we need 1 mm width on columns |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | keep in mind stock lettering with block seriffs will just poke hole if made smaller |
| Jeri Lee | and to have openings in letters, we need 1 mm openings. |
| Jeri Lee | Underlay is perpendicular. |
| Jeri Lee | Are there any questions on what we have covered so far? |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | At what stitch length do you put your underlay |
| Shelly | should we decrease the stitch length on underlay? |
| Jeri Lee | Yes. |
| Jeri Lee | good question, thank you! |
| Jeri Lee | I like to decrease the run stitch length to 2 mm, and in some cases, 1.5 |
| hack | Is density, then, the reason the inside angle of a letter L isn't crisp? |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | what inset distance/ do you get that choice on perpendicular? |
| Cheryl | what is the dif between satin and run stitches..in lettering...can you do run stitches |
| Jeri Lee | No, not necessarily, on the L question |
| Ed | sometimes a manual run underlay is needed as well. |
| Bill | Is there a way to adjust the width of the thread on the screen to compensate for the difference in 40wt & 60 wt threads so it is more realistic |
| Jeri Lee | I use .50 inset. |
| Jeri Lee | I do not think you can adjust the thread look on the screen. |
| Ed | if you ever notice sometimes a perpendicular, even set to 1 line will run multiple tmes |
| Jeri Lee | How many of you punch your own letters? |
| Ed | that can be a kiss of death on a letter with a hole |
| Jeri Lee | Absolutely! |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | yea here |
| Shelly | i do when i have to!! |
| hack | I do, but my L problem is with stock fonts |
| mikeg | yes I do |
| lattemarie | Thank-you ... I've notice that and didn't know why |
| Ed | i think in design properties, there is a thread thickness |
| Jeri Lee | Is there? |
| Ed | but i don't recal |
| Ed | for sure |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | I do like ed's small lettering though |
| Jeri Lee | On L's, often the problem is the way the stitches are going around the corner. |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | Actually you can choose madiera 60 if that does anything I don't know I will play |
| hack | I try to keep them perpendicular pretty close to the corner--is that wrong? |
| Jeri Lee | You want it to run down the center |
| Jeri Lee | On corners of L's, there is a technique that Ed often uses on his small lettering, where |
| Ed | too close to the edges can make the underlay stick out |
| Ed | giving a rough jagged frayed look |
| Jeri Lee | Where he does not actually have the letters connected |
| Jeri Lee | Excuse me, the segments of the letters connected. |
| Ed | the less harsh a corner, the better |
| Jeri Lee | There is a small space like for instance on the L |
| Jeri Lee | Columns of satin 'push' outward at the end. |
| Jeri Lee | By leaving the small space, |
| Jeri Lee | he is allowing for the 'push' of the thread in the column, which fills in the corner nicely. |
| hack | So less density just in the corner! |
| Jeri Lee | To see an example of this, go to the website after the chat, and look at Baby Jag. |
| Jeri Lee | www.embforum.com. |
| Jeri Lee | You want less density in the corner, yes, and that is what the space left accomplishes. |
| Jeri Lee | Ed also brought up a very good point regarding the underlay. |
| hack | I'm confused about "harsh" corners--which are harsh? |
| Ed | here is another good exercise to try... in the system do a Block E and then convert text to segments |
| Ed | make sure your show beads are on |
| Ed | and look at the 3 angle lines that make the corner |
| Jeri Lee | Hack, if you start at the top of your L, then do your corner, then do the end of the L, that is 'harsh' |
| Ed | you will notice how far apart the outside angle lines are |
| Jeri Lee | it allows for excess thread to gather in the corner. |
| Ed | and and how CLOSE the inside angle lines are. |
| Ed | it just demonstrates how you have so much less of a turning space available on an inside corner. |
| Jeri Lee | On the underlay, |
| Jeri Lee | If you hand punch (manual punch) the underlay, you have much more control over it. |
| hack | So am I right that it's better to keep perpendicular angle lines pretty close to the corners? |
| Jeri Lee | As we have seen, sometimes the system gives you 3 passes when you only asked for 1! |
| Jeri Lee | If you manually lay the underlay, you control how many passes you get. |
| hack | If I understand you, harsh is where you just let the stitches do their own angling between the end and the corner |
| Jeri Lee | You want more control. |
| Ed | the closer your angle lines are in the corners, the harsher it has to turn |
| Jeri Lee | And that's when your fabric gets drilled. |
| Ed | if you spread them out a bit, then the stitches can turn a little more freely. |
| hack | Oops--I'm confused again then-- |
| Jeri Lee | Okay, if you have angle lines very close to one another, |
| Jeri Lee | you are dictating what area has to do what turning. |
| Jeri Lee | The closer to the corner they are, the more they have to do in a very small space. |
| idette | that's why when you use Baby Jag, it looks like there are big gaps, but when you stitch it, it looks fine? |
| Ed | yes, the gaps are intentional |
| Donna | is baby jag the best font to use on small letters |
| Ed | think of it as a joint in concrete |
| hack | but I thought Ed said a harsh corner would be NO angle lines UNTIL the corner, just one in the corner--sorry I'm stuck on this point |
| Cheryl | can you change the key board fonts when this happens? |
| Ed | to allow for movement |
| Jeri Lee | Hack, I believe I confused you. |
| Jeri Lee | Let me try to unconfuse you. |
| Ed | hack, three angle lines in a corner very close to one another is asking for a very tight turn. |
| hack | Actually I've been confused about this for a long time, Jeri Lee--you didn't do it! |
| Ed | three angle lines in a corner a little spaced apart allow for a less harsh turn. |
| reen | in the segment settings on the satin tab in the connection end there are four choices, sharp,square,chiseled and zigzag...which one is better for small lettering? |
| Cheryl | i was told sharp |
| Jeri Lee | When I digitize letters, and I have an L, |
| hack | What about two line that are perpendicular to the satin, FAIRLY close to the corner, but with none IN the corner... |
| Jeri Lee | I ease into the corners. |
| Jeri Lee | Try to keep your underlay in the CENTER of the letter. |
| Jeri Lee | Is this clearing it up a bit hack? |
| Jeri Lee | When I say I ease into the corners, |
| hack | um--well, let me ask another way |
| Jeri Lee | I have my straight line across the top of the L. |
| Jeri Lee | As I move down the letter to the corner, on a normal size L, |
| Jeri Lee | I begin to angle a bit until I get somewhat close to the corner |
| Jeri Lee | then the angle preceeding and following the corner angle, |
| Jeri Lee | are the same as the corner |
| Jeri Lee | BUT |
| Jeri Lee | they are not close to the corner |
| Jeri Lee | then I ease out to the final angle line on the lower leg. |
| Jeri Lee | I am directing the thread at what I want it to do. |
| hack | So you DO want some angling before you get too close to the corner. |
| Jeri Lee | I personally do it like that, |
| Jeri Lee | Every digitizer has their own method. |
| Jeri Lee | But realize, that is on NORMAL size letters. |
| Jeri Lee | On small letters, Ed |
| Jeri Lee | has a tried and true method, |
| Jeri Lee | of leaving some space between the segments, |
| Jeri Lee | so the L would actually be 2 segments. |
| Ed | i will do a few screen shots for both methods and post.. brb. |
| Jeri Lee | Thank you. |
| Jeri Lee | His space in the corner area |
| hack | I've been trying to keep daylight between the lines (onscreen), but that does cause short stitches in the corner--maybe that's my question--do you want MORE or LESS short stitches in a corner? (And I DO get it about Ed's 2-segment method--I like that.) |
| Jeri Lee | allows for the 'push |
| hack | Screen shots would be great |
| Jeri Lee | of the thread. |
| Jeri Lee | LESS stitches in a corner. |
| Jeri Lee | Whew, I think we nailed that one... LOL! |
| Jeri Lee | Does this make sense now? |
| hack | And less SHORT ones? |
| hack | Where they're short to avoid being on top of each other? |
| Jeri Lee | You want an altering if you can between long and short, to 'ease' around the corner, but if you do this Ed's way on small letters, you don't have that problem. |
| Jeri Lee | His small letter technique is for... lol... small letters.... |
| Jeri Lee | I have alluded to the 'push' of the thread on columns |
| lattemarie | lol |
| Jeri Lee | Does anyone not understand what I am talking about on that? |
| mikeg | not really |
| Jeri Lee | Okay. |
| Jeri Lee | On columns, |
| Jeri Lee | the needle inserts side to side, right? |
| mikeg | correct |
| Jeri Lee | okay. What happens? |
| Jeri Lee | It pulls IN, which is why we have pull comp, right? |
| Jeri Lee | That thread has to go SOMEWHERE. |
| Jeri Lee | Where is it going to go? |
| Jeri Lee | Out either end. |
| Jeri Lee | It is 'pushing' out the ends. |
| Jeri Lee | Which is why it 'fills' in when you leave gaps on small letters. |
| Jeri Lee | Does that make sense? |
| mikeg | big light bulb! |
| Jeri Lee | Any questions so far/ |
| lattemarie | Jeri Lee, is .4 a good guideline for push comp? |
| Jeri Lee | That is Ed's chosen. |
| Jeri Lee | :-) |
| Jeri Lee | I prefer .2 |
| lattemarie | Ok, thanks |
| lattemarie | What I meant is ... do you generally allow for the push to be approximately .4mm? |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | yep |
| Jeri Lee | Marie, |
| eleganttreasures@fuse.net | I'll have a few...not great for diet, but sounds great! |
| Jeri Lee | So, split that and say .3? |
| Jeri Lee | LOL |
| hack | It seems to vary, how much is needed--for instance, if you have to columns that overlap, don't they push more? |
| Jeri Lee | Karen, you so don't need a diet. GET OUTTA HEAH |
| lattemarie | I had a design I needed this for recently because I was doing outlines |
| lattemarie | on lettering |
| hack | two, I mean |
| Linda Perry | If you don't have Maestro, you aren't able to control push, right? |
| Jeri Lee | Yes, Linda you can. |
| eleganttreasures@fuse.net | Thanks JL...not enought running lately! |
| lattemarie | So I needed to know exactly how much the columns were pushing to line everything up |
| Jeri Lee | However, bad me, I do not use that tool |
| Jeri Lee | In maestro. |
| Jeri Lee | Oh, hang on hack, yes there is a 'setting'. |
| hack | OH! Is it in an update? I always just adjust it manually... |
| Jeri Lee | Welcome to the beauty of Ed and the Forum! |
| Jeri Lee | He figured it out! |
| Jeri Lee | No, it is not in an update |
| hack | I'm hanging on! |
| Jeri Lee | You measure it on screen. |
| reen | how? |
| Jeri Lee | on the Forum, we can attach files. |
| Jeri Lee | and Ed's famous for his screen shots... lol |
| Jeri Lee | great learing tools. |
| Jeri Lee | Okay. |
| Jeri Lee | Let me try. |
| Jeri Lee | Say you have a piece of artwork |
| Jeri Lee | You see that you have the letter I |
| Jeri Lee | Now |
| Gaily | okay |
| Jeri Lee | you are going to measure from the bottom of the I |
| Jeri Lee | and you are going to go up 2 (4) mm |
| Jeri Lee | and you are going to drag a guideline up to that. |
| Jeri Lee | You are going to do the same for the top of any column letters. |
| Jeri Lee | The thread will 'push' out far enough on the garment to fill in that 4 mm area |
| Jeri Lee | Do you understand? |
| Shelly | he has a guide for this somewhere on the forum website |
| Shelly | which letters to do this with |
| lattemarie | I'd love to know where that is |
| Jeri Lee | All columns |
| Ed | www.embforum.com/corners.jpg should demonstrate what we were discussing with the angle lines in the corners |
| hack | I thought you meant a setting like pull comp |
| Jeri Lee | There you go |
| hack | thanks Ed |
| Jeri Lee | Pullcomp affects the width. |
| hack | OK |
| Jeri Lee | not the height, but in a way it does affect the height. |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | is'nt that great that ed can just create that for us. I want to be like ed |
| eleganttreasures@fuse.net | Thanks Ed for the Visual.. |
| Jeri Lee | We ALL want to be like Ed! |
| rshields | Very nice illustrations. Thank you. |
| Gaily | where are the visuals |
| Jeri Lee | Does anyone have any questions thus far. |
| eleganttreasures@fuse.net | stop Saundra...I'm going to have to make some.... |
| Jeri Lee | www.embforum.com/corners.jpg |
| Jeri Lee | No questions so far. okay! |
| hack | (The corners jpg cleared things up for me. That probably could never have been done verbally!) |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | Yeah what about different fabrics does it work the same on all??? |
| Jeri Lee | Here is a good visual and a good way to learn a lot in your shops: |
| mikeg | getting clearer all the time |
| Ed | craig, acutally, we have that type of service but some people can't attend without high speed |
| Jeri Lee | I want you each to do an exercise. |
| Ed | we do some webinars |
| Jeri Lee | Saundra brought up a very good point, little baker that she is |
| Ed | click on this link |
| Jeri Lee | Gaily, did you click on the link? |
| Ed | www.embforum.com/corners.jpg |
| Jeri Lee | click there. |
| hack | I know Ed--when are we having more webinars? I haven't heard of any lately. |
| Ed | i am working on the schedule now |
| Jeri Lee | Here is the exercise, |
| Jeri Lee | It has to do with size and density. |
| Jeri Lee | On a new screen, |
| Shelly | i clicked and it through me out of here! |
| Jeri Lee | type in the words EmbForum in block, at 6.25, which is 1/4 inch. |
| Linda Perry | I tried to click on the link--did not work |
| Gaily | it is not working for me either |
| Ed | if you have a pop up blocker, clicking on the link in here won't work |
| Jeri Lee | we will wait until we have the link issue cleared and everyone has had a chance to look. |
| Shelly | i got it it was my pop up blocker! |
| Jeri Lee | Okay, are we good to go? |
| reen | I'm printing the picture for future reference |
| Jeri Lee | let's go on to the exercise I want you all to do |
| Jeri Lee | On the exercise. |
| Jeri Lee | I want all of you to after the chat, get a new screen on your software. |
| reen | where there seems to be a space in the corners is there actually a space? |
| Jeri Lee | I want you to type in a word, EmbForum works. |
| Gaily | i have visual now thank you |
| Jeri Lee | Type it in at 6.25, which is .25 inches. |
| Jeri Lee | In Block font. |
| reen | I meant blank space |
| Jeri Lee | Now duplicate that. |
| Jeri Lee | Reen, yes, there actually is a space... :-) |
| Jeri Lee | Now I want you to duplicate that block font text, |
| reen | and it will still sew? |
| Jeri Lee | three times. |
| Jeri Lee | Yes, it sews. |
| Jeri Lee | Put them under one another, going down the screen. |
| Jeri Lee | On the first one, leave that at full size of quarter inch. |
| Jeri Lee | next one down, size that to 5.75 mm. |
| nettie | how do you type it in at 6.25, do you mean shrink it to that? |
| Jeri Lee | You are going to type in your first line of text at quarter inch, which is 6.25 mm high. |
| Jeri Lee | same thing, just different ways of measureing. |
| Jeri Lee | Now. |
| Jeri Lee | next one down, tell the software to make it 5.75 mm. |
| Jeri Lee | Even if you are in inches. |
| Ed | fyi in the software, you can put mm or in after your measurement regardless how your settings are |
| Jeri Lee | you can type in 5.57 mm, and it will adjust it for you. |
| Jeri Lee | In otherwords, it will convert for you. |
| Jeri Lee | 3rd one down, go to 5 mm. |
| Jeri Lee | 4th one down, go to 4 mm. |
| Jeri Lee | I meant 5.75, not 5.57... |
| Jeri Lee | Everyone following so far? |
| Jeri Lee | and i really do expect you guys to actually DO this... lol! |
| lattemarie | ok |
| Jeri Lee | It is extremely visual. |
| rshields | We will Sir! |
| physte2 | I'm in! |
| Jeri Lee | You need upper and lower case. |
| Jeri Lee | lol |
| Jeri Lee | Once you have done this. |
| Jeri Lee | You will leave the top lettering at full density. |
| Jeri Lee | Next size down, decrease by 5 spi. |
| Bill | DONE ..... thankful for dual displays |
| Jeri Lee | (If you are using points or mm, you can tell it -5spi and it will adjust) |
| Shelly | lo |
| Shelly | lol |
| Jeri Lee | Third one down, you can go -9 spi |
| Jeri Lee | 4th one down, you can go - 10 to -12 spi. |
| Jeri Lee | and if you are really brave |
| Jeri Lee | you can have a 5th row at 3.5 mm high. |
| Jeri Lee | For learning purposes. |
| Gaily | I am trying to find the denisty |
| Jeri Lee | Density is under your satin tab in your segment settings, |
| Jeri Lee | on the upper right. |
| Jeri Lee | It is set to 0.0 |
| Gaily | got it |
| Jeri Lee | until youdo something with it. |
| Jeri Lee | Some of you will need to adjust more, because you have your system set to 74.7 or 77 spi. |
| Jeri Lee | But, this is a learning exercise. |
| Jeri Lee | You will have perpendicular underlay |
| Jeri Lee | Inset distance of .50 |
| lattemarie | What would you recommend if our default is set to 74.7? |
| Jeri Lee | On the larger lettering, the 2.5 mm stitch length is fine. |
| Jeri Lee | Marie, try it at these numbers and see what you get. |
| lattemarie | ok |
| Jeri Lee | These are the numbers I use and I am at 74.7, but first did this exercise when my system was set at 63.5 |
| Jeri Lee | As the size of the lettering gets smaller, you get to adjust your stitch length. |
| Jeri Lee | On the 5.75 mm, 2.5 is still okay |
| Jeri Lee | On the third and fourth texts down, go to 2 mm stitch length. |
| Jeri Lee | Now. |
| Jeri Lee | Duplicate those 4 lines (5 if you added a bottom one at 3.5 mm high) |
| Jeri Lee | and move to the other side of your screen, and paste. |
| Jeri Lee | Change the text to a serif. |
| Jeri Lee | Ready for what is next? |
| Jeri Lee | (and I will post these on embforum... lol) |
| Jeri Lee | You are going to stitch this out. |
| Jeri Lee | The reason you are doing this is, |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | everything needs to go from screen to machine to really see it. so hoop up 4 different kinds of fabric and run this too see what it does. this ill help you with your density settings and backings to use also |
| Jeri Lee | you can see exactly what manipulations you can make in your stock keyboard lettering, |
| Jeri Lee | and how manipulations can make the impossible possible. |
| Jeri Lee | Saundra is correct there also. |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | Practice, Practice, Practice |
| Jeri Lee | run this on every type of fabric you need to do lettering on and you will see exactly what adjustments you are going to need to make. |
| Jeri Lee | and you thought tonight was going to be easy.... lol |
| Jeri Lee | did I lose anyone |
| lattemarie | Which text should we use for the 2nd set of letters? |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | After all this is not an exact science and eveery aspect effects the outcome |
| Jeri Lee | any serif your little heart desires. |
| lattemarie | ok |
| Jeri Lee | BINGO |
| lattemarie | Do we use 2mm stitch length for rows 3, 4 & 5? |
| Jeri Lee | Did you guys understand |
| lattemarie | k |
| Jeri Lee | marie, correct |
| ladyle | ;) |
| Laurel Lee | makes more sense now |
| hack | we're here |
| Jeri Lee | If you are a Pulse lister person, I want you to email me privately at jerilee@blackeagledesigns.com and I will send you the file if I confused you. |
| physte2 | Got it! |
| Jeri Lee | I will post files to EmbForum tonight on this in case I left anyone in the dust, but I want you guys to do this. |
| Jeri Lee | It is a healthy exercise (unlike the cookies) that will teach you a lot. |
| Shelly | lol |
| Jeri Lee | (Pass the cookies). |
| Jeri Lee | Now. |
| Jeri Lee | I KNOW there have to be questions. |
| Jeri Lee | What are they |
| eleganttreasures@fuse.net | will they make it to Cincy? |
| Saundra-Works of ARt | Okay, did you get them?? |
| G |